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Key West and the Florida Keys

Key West History

   Known by locals as “Paradise,” Key West truly is one of the finest spots in the country to call home. The real-life Margaritaville is also home to Ernest Hemingway, the Hog’s Breath Saloon and a rich history. Pirates camped on the island in the 1800s until the U.S. Navy set up an anti-piracy base in 1820. The ruins of the base still stand on the island's western tip at Fort Zachary Taylor State Park. Key West hosted wreckers who salvaged sunken vessels, cigar makers, fishermen and several famous historical figures. Key West also was home to President Truman; Robert Frost; and Hemingway, who has been immortalized at Sloppy Joe's.
   Today, the palm-lined streets and sparkling blue waters invite people of all backgrounds to live in the beauty of the Key West. Daily sunset celebrations in Mallory Square illustrate the enjoyment residents find in everyday occurrences and their thankfulness for living in one of America's most unique, historical and innovative communities. It's nearly impossible not to be affected by the loveliness of the islands and the joviality and good nature of their residents.
   All along the island chain, the water is clear; the breeze is refreshing; and the people have a welcoming, small-town manner. Endangered miniature Key deer call Big Pine Key home, and it's a great place to escape the excitement of Key West and relax for a while. There are plenty of camping areas, dive shops and fishing charter boats. Nearby Little Duck Key at MM 40 boasts a dog-friendly beach at Veterans Memorial Park.
   Marathon, located halfway along the chain of islands, is perhaps better equipped with modern conveniences, from shopping centers to a hospital, than the surrounding smaller keys. It's also home to the Dolphin Research Center, the Turtle Hospital and all the water sports the Keys are famous for.
   Islamorada is said by many to be the “sport fishing capital of the world,” and for good reason. The Atlantic side is a prime spot for sailfish and tuna fishing, and the mangrove backcountry of the Florida Bay teems with tarpon and bonefish. Windley Key's Theater of the Sea puts on spectacular dolphin and sea lion shows, runs glass bottom boat tours, and displays a wide array of native sea life. Visitors even have the option of swimming or snorkeling with dolphins, sea lions and stingrays!

Climate and Demographics

   More than 82,000 full-time residents live in the Florida Keys, and the tourist season from November to April swells the population by a whopping 75 percent. Many of the “snowbirds” land in Old Town Key West, where the rental rates skyrocket. Key West, by far the most populous island, has more than 25,000 residents in less than 6 square miles of land. Fifty-five percent of them are male, and the median income tops $50,000 per year.
   Key West is the only city in the continental United States that falls below the latitudinal frost line, so it’s no surprise that the average yearly temperature is a comfortable 78 degrees. Average rainfall reaches 40 inches yearly, and 11 mph winds fill sails nicely. The sun shines on Paradise roughly 265 days per year.

Real Estate

   Though real estate in the Keys comes with a steep price tag, those who’ve taken the plunge rarely regret it. The ideal climate, excellent leisure and recreation opportunities, and thriving economy make the Florida Keys a paradise for residents. Another positive note: Real estate values are unlikely to ever drop in such an idyllic environment, especially considering the restrictions placed on new development in order to protect the remaining natural habitats on the islands. Even those with no intention of selling benefit from the enormous equity they amass in a few short years.
   Median home value in Key West was $215,000 for 2003, much higher than the national median of $134,000. These figures represent the selling price of an average two-bedroom and one- or two-bath home; those nearer shore or in the Old Town neighborhood generally sell much higher, well over $600,000.  According to April 2004 Multiple Listing Service figures, the average selling price of all homes throughout the Keys came to $530,000, and sellers received 95 percent of their original asking price.
   Many newer homes are concrete block and stucco construction on stilts to avoid water damage in the event of a flood or storm surge. Stately Victorian and colonial homes in the Old Town sector of Key West are typically two- or three-story wood structures with wraparound porches and intricate detailing.
   Other options include town homes, condos and apartments, which cost less per month, They also often feature amenities such as pools and gyms, and spare the residents the expenses of upkeep and landscaping. Most are located at the northern tip of the island, and many offer beautiful waterfront views from their balconies. Those desiring only a temporary stopover in Paradise can choose from many available seasonal rental units, which typically run between $2,000 and $4,000 per month.
   Key West’s city government recently purchased what is known as the Poinciana property, which will ensure the availability of affordable housing for those working on the island and their families. The city also intends to build a senior citizens' assisted living facility on four acres of the Truman waterfront property.
   Key West strives to maintain its reputation as a melting pot, where people with differing cultural backgrounds, sexual orientations and ages all live together harmoniously.

Recreation and Leisure

   Sport fishing is a favorite pastime of locals and visitors alike, as the crystal-clear water surrounding the Keys seasonally hosts schools of marlin, sailfish, wahoo, tuna, kingfish, barracuda and varieties of sharks. All will test your skill with a line and reel, and some make an excellent meal. Reef and wreck fishermen bring home cobia, amberjack, grouper, snapper, mackerel and reef sharks. Backcountry anglers catch tarpon and bonefish in the shallower waters nearer shore. Fish grow to massive sizes in this ideal environment: Keys fishermen have landed Atlantic sailfish over 100 pounds, jewfish over 350 pounds, feisty barracuda at 53 pounds and even a 400-pound stingray. More than 50 annual fishing tournaments challenge fishermen all along the Keys and into Cuban waters. Deep-sea charter boats provide transportation, equipment and licenses for fishermen. Those preferring to stay nearer shore can cast from many of the old bridges that Monroe County has graciously converted into public fishing piers.
   Scuba diving is the other primary aquatic activity in the Keys, which is home to North America’s only living-coral barrier reef. Some of the most beautiful and interesting dive spots in the world are located throughout the Keys and only a short boat ride from shore. Coral covers shipwrecks and thrives in autonomous formations both in shallow water, easily accessible by snorkelers, and depths between 25 and 100 feet for exploration by more experienced scuba divers. Reef species include exotic fish, corals, rays, turtles, sponges, eels, crabs, jellyfish, anemones and more. The clear water and bright sunlight make the Keys an underwater photographer’s dream, and even novices get pretty nice snapshots with disposable waterproof cameras.
   Since the government declared a 2,800 square nautical mile area the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary in 1990, many steps have been taken to ensure the continued health of the reefs and the surrounding mangrove islands and seagrass beds. Reefs feature buoys indicating where divers may drop anchor without damaging coral, and boating and diving regulations are strictly enforced. Divers may not remove anything at all from the reefs and are not to touch the sensitive corals — these guidelines ensure that the beauty of the reefs will survive for future generations to explore and enjoy.
   Two especially notable diving spots within the marine sanctuary are John Pennekamp Coral Reef Stake Park to the east of Key Largo, and Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary off Ramrod Key just south of Big Pine. Pennekamp has been entirely off-limits to fishermen and coral harvesters since 1975 and offers a vast array of shallow water reefs and sunken ships dating from World War II. Boat rentals, glass-bottom boat tours, and scuba and snorkeling tours are available. Looe Key, named for the HMS Looe that sank there in 1744, hosts a small but thoroughly diverse marine community that includes manta rays, whale sharks and massive jewfish, which are actually just overgrown grouper, though they’re said to have inhaled divers.
   The white sand and clear blue water at Bahia Honda State Park, located at the northern end of the Seven Mile Bridge at MM 37, stretches over 500 acres of preserved natural beauty. Among the nicest beaches in the Keys, Bahia Honda offers a marina and boat ramps, picnic areas, camping, cabins, shallow-water coral formations, a dive shop, and daily snorkel trips to nearby Looe Key. Other exceptional public beaches include Sombrero Beach at MM 50 in Marathon, which features a children’s cove protected from undertow and strong current; Plantation Yacht Harbor at MM 86 in Islamorada, which offers water-sport rentals and a restaurant; and Harry Harris Park & Beach at MM 92 in Key Largo, which provides excellent fishing and swimming. Key West locals, often referred to as “conchs,” call the beach outside the Fort Zachary Taylor State Historic Park the best on the island, though Smathers Beach by the airport is longer.
   The seven islands of the Dry Tortugas National Park, offshore 70 miles west of Key West, once served as a Union prison for captured deserters, though the government initially intended to control Gulf traffic from the fort. Fort Jefferson was never completed and became a national monument in 1935 to protect the green sea and loggerhead turtles that gave the islands their name. (“Tortuga” is Spanish for turtle.) The islands are “dry” because there is no fresh water supply, as sailors with explorer Ponce de Leon discovered in 1513. The area now also protects a variety of tropical seabirds and the surrounding coral reefs. The fort and several of the seven islands are open to visitors and are reached either by Tortuga ferryboats or by private vessel or seaplane.

Arts and Entertainment

   The most entertaining week on the islands is Fantasy Fest, Key West’s answer to Mardi Gras, Rio’s Carnivale and Las Vegas stage shows, all rolled into one massive celebration. Each October, toga parties, beneath-the-sea costume parties, drag queen poolside parties and the annual Headdress Ball pack the island with tourists from across the globe. The 10 days of revelry culminate in a parade down Whitehead and Duval Streets that showcases floats, bead-throwing and imaginative costumes. Fantasy Fest isn’t for the faint of heart (or the demure) and involves airbrushed body-art competitions, tattoo and piercing exhibitions, and costumes that somehow sidestep they city’s indecent exposure laws.
   The Keys inspire beauty effortlessly, and the outstanding number and quality of art and photography galleries prove the inherent creativity of local citizens. Among the more renowned local galleries are the Wyland Gallery; the Kent Gallery; and Gallery Key West, which displays the work of exceptional local artists. Many more stand scattered along Duval and the rest of Old Town Key West, selling oil and watercolor paintings, glasswork, photography, sculpture, jewelry and anything else the artists’ minds envision.
   The Florida Keys Council of the Arts acts as an organizing and networking institution, enhancing the cultural atmosphere and encouraging participation by all. The Key West Theatre Festival in June celebrates the stage with several plays, script readings, cabarets, and playwrights’ forums. Red Barn Theatre produces about five shows per year, and the Masquerade Theatre entrances audiences with its interactive murder mystery performances. The Island Opera Company raises the cultural bar with its resplendent arias and elaborate staging.
   Dozens of museums satisfy visitor curiosity about everything from the island’s history to which specters haunt the alleyways. The Key West Museum of Art & History at the Custom House chronicles the small town’s evolution from pirate stronghold to wrecker’s paradise to modern day melting pot. The Ghosts & Legends of Key West tour engages child and adult alike as it winds through the streets of downtown, stopping at the old city morgue and St. Paul’s Cemetery.
   Visit the Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum, the Robert Frost Cottage or Harry S. Truman’s Little White House for guided tours that run daily. Perch atop the Southernmost Spot in the United States for a memorable photo, ride a trolley tour, skydive over the islands, or take the ferry to the Tortugas and explore the ruins and the reefs.

Dining

   Naturally, the specialty of Keys restaurants is seafood; everything from raw oysters to Key lobster, which are excellent, though they lack the claws found on the Maine variety. Local fish varieties include snapper; mackerel; grouper; tuna; and mahi mahi, which is sometimes called “dolphin,” but is indeed a fish and not a bottlenose like Flipper. Other seafood abounds as well: stone crabs, blue crabs and huge pink Key shrimp. Many restaurants will even prepare your day’s catch to your specifications and choice of sides, sparing you the messy effort of filleting.
   More than 150 restaurants tempt Key West residents, offering flavors inspired by Caribbean, Cuban, Asian, European and classic American cuisine and often melded into a single decadent dish. “The Menu,” a quarterly restaurant guide published quarterly by The Key West Citizen, collects the menus from more than 60 of the local restaurants and greatly simplifies finding the fare of your choice. Eateries can be divided by location, depending upon their proximity to Duval Street.
   Key West’s main drag is lined with restaurants both unique and chain, such as the Hard Rock Café and Denny’s. Locals start their day at Camille’s Restaurant at 703½ Duval for a breakfast of the signature pecan waffles and stone crab claw-meat cakes featured on an ever-evolving menu. Lunch usually calls for one of the fantastic grilled-with-lemon fish sandwiches at the Hog’s Breath Saloon, or a big and flavorful burger at the Garden Café. Those with a hearty appetite and a bit more cash often stop for a monte cristo sandwich at Alice’s at La Te Da. Try the homemade pastas and desserts at Antonia’s Restaurant, or the sophisticated La Trattoria to satisfy a craving for Italian dishes. The Banana Café blends French and Caribbean influences into spectacular crepes complemented by live jazz in the evening. Sample fresh sushi and teriyaki at the Origami Japanese Restaurant, or enjoy a dinner of Dragon Hot Noodles or coconut shrimp in the ornate atmosphere of Dim Sum. Seafood enthusiasts love the balcony view from Crabby Dicks’ Seafood on Duval almost as much as their budget-priced stone crab and oysters.
   Those venturing off Duval are rewarded with an eclectic mix of restaurants marked by a more relaxed mood and perhaps a more authentic representation of true Key West flavor. Blue Heaven on Thomas Street is known for fabulous vegetarian and Caribbean entrées such as jerk chicken, vegetable roulade and beer-batter pancakes. Chickens and cats roam the courtyard outside Blue Heaven, which once housed a bordello and a boxing ring. Watch the yachts from a table at A&B Lobster House at 700 Front St., a Key West classic for seafood. Captain Runaground Harvey’s Floating Restaurant, which moored at the Garrison Bight City Marina, offers an entertaining departure from the usual landlubber restaurant. Lobo’s Grill in Key Lime Square is packed with lunching locals savoring the rolled tortilla sandwiches, burgers and quesadillas. On Eaton Street, the Paradise Café carves the biggest made-to-order sandwiches on the island, everything from barbecue pork to tuna salad to sliced turkey. Michael’s on Margaret Street near Turtle Kraals and the Half Shell Raw Bar serves dozens of martinis to complement the decadent prime rib, award-winning filets and erupting chocolate volcano cake.
   In a town where the bars shake until 4 a.m., it’s nice that there are a few late-night restaurants ready to satisfy your after-hours cravings. Mangoes on Duval serves up 15 varieties of wood-fired pizza in a corner café setting. Across from Captain Tony’s, the Iguana Café at 425 Greene St. cooks a full menu 24 hours a day, everything from alligator burgers to breakfast dishes. Until 3 a.m., reasonably priced American-style entrées are available at PT’s Late Night Bar & Grill on Caroline Street.
   No Name Key, accessible from Big Pine Key near MM 28, features a bar so out-of-the-way it’s nearly impossible to find, but once you do, it’s well worth the effort. The No Name Pub serves beer, seafood, and the best deep-dish pizza and breadsticks south of Chicago in a little building wallpapered with dollar bills signed and left by customers as early as 1936. On Big Pine itself is the luxurious Little Palm Island Resort & Spa and its candlelit terrace-above-the-beach dining room. Chefs prepare gourmet “Floribbean” cuisine with Asian accents while you sit above the waves or along the beach and watch Key deer against the sunset.
   While on Marathon, stop at the Water’s Edge and take in the sparkling horizon as you dine. The Barracuda Grill serves steak and seafood with a Caribbean & Thai flair, their signature Bahamian conch cakes, and plenty of dessert choices. At MM 49, Annette’s Lobster & Steak House will cook your catch or serve a dish from their extensive menu. The Key Fisheries Market restaurant is also seaside and offers such regional cuisine as conch fritters, gator nuggets and fresh-caught, cooked-to-order fish in addition to the usual American menu.
   Lorelei’s on Islamorada celebrates sunset daily at MM 84 with more surf and turf entrées. Boat over to Papa Joe’s Landmark Restaurant, MM 79.7, for the trademark lobster and catch-of-the-day specialties, including your own hard-won filet. The Mediterranean influence at Uncle’s Restaurant at MM 80.9 determines the delectable spices dusted atop the veal loin and marinated chargrilled tuna.
   Key Largo’s Italian Fisherman, overlooking Blackwater Sound and its resident catfish, serves Southern Italian dishes at candlelit tables that offer a great sunset-watching vantage. It’s accessible by boat at MM 104. Likewise, Calypso’s at MM 99.5 is nestled into the Ocean Bay Marina and blends an excellent she-crab soup and crabmeat quesadilla.

Nightlife

   Key West is nearly as visited for its famous bars as it is for the surrounding waters. The unofficial “Duval Crawl” tradition requires participants to “bar-hop” till the street closes down, which isn’t until 4 a.m. in this party town!  Liquor and beer are permitted in the downtown streets providing they’re not in glass containers.
   Probably the most famous Duval icon, Sloppy Joe’s was Hemingway’s favorite pub. It features live music throughout the day, an energetic dance floor, great food, and a “Papa Hemingway look-alike” contest. It was originally located where Captain Tony’s Saloon stands today on Greene Street, walls bedecked in underwear and business cards. The Hog’s Breath Saloon serves diners in an open-air setting from two mahogany bars featuring Hog’s Breath lager to the sounds of live blues, jazz and rock. The Oak Beach Inn, formerly of New York, pours the best Long Island iced teas anywhere. Irish Kevin’s alternates between side-splitting comedians and live music in its Emerald Isle-inspired pub. The Green Parrot, half a block off Duval at 601 Whitehead St., attracts locals and fans of live blues and Cajun zydeco music.
   Lunch on a “cheeseburger in paradise” at Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville Café, or browse the memorabilia at the Hard Rock Café. Though off the beaten path, Turtle Kraals Seafood Grill and Bar serves dozens of microbrews and cocktails right on the waterfront. Next door to this converted turtle cannery is the Half Shell Raw Bar, one of the top 10 in the country. These are but a few of the dozens of bars lining Duval and the surrounding streets; everyone’s certain to find a favorite watering hole in Key West.
   The gay and lesbian community thrives in Key West, and hot spots include 801 Bourbon Bar and Diva’s, famous for its late-night drag show.  801 Bourbon invites customers to choose between billiards and a top-notch drag show that runs nightly. Steps away, the Bourbon Street Pub lays claim to the town’s only DJ, who plays music and videos for male dancers and drag queens.

Shopping

   One of Key West’s most famous shops is Kino Sandals on Fitzpatrick Street, stocked with hand-made leather and rope sandals available only at that single store. The Shell Warehouse in Mallory Square overflows into the street with starfish, sand dollars, souvenirs and every kind of seashell imaginable. The signature cream at Key West aloe will soothe reddened skin and make it smell nice, too.
   Diving shops dot the entire length of the Keys, selling and renting everything you’ll need to see the beautiful coral reefs up close. Of course all the pubs sell their name and logo emblazoned across T-shirts, hats and beach towels, and they make great gifts for those living at northern latitudes. Street merchants sell fresh produce, and the multitude of fresh fish markets make the Keys one of the country’s best spots for preparing your own delicacies at home. Many will even express-ship iced seafood to northern climes, should a friend pine for steamed stone crab claws or yellowtail snapper.

Transportation

   The main thoroughfare is US 1/ the Overseas Highway, which travels from the tip of Key Largo to the southernmost point in the United States in Key West. In place of typical addresses, mile markers locate everything along the Overseas Highway. These begin at 0 in Key West and end at 127 in Florida City, beyond Key Largo.
   Cars are nearly mandatory north of Key West, but that small island so teems with people that either walking or riding a moped, bicycle, motorcycle or scooter is much easier. These are widely available for sale and vacation rental. Taxis, both the auto and bicycle sort, operate on the island as well, and again are preferable to driving oneself due to the tight parking situation.
   Airports on Key West and Marathon serve the Keys; both commercial and private planes fly from their runways. The nearest large-capacity airports are Miami International and Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International. A shuttle from both of these airports and the Amtrak station in Miami drops passengers at Key Largo and several other points along the Keys.
   In the islands, boating is actually a practical method of daily transportation, as nearly every island has a public dock, and many shops and restaurants are accessible by water. High-speed ferry boats move passengers from Fort Myers and Naples to Key West or vice versa in about three and a half hours.

Economy

   Not surprisingly, tourism powers a large portion of the Keys’ economy, which has an annual upswing in the winter and slower period in the warmer summer months. The tourist appeal is strongly dependent upon the natural beauty and bounty of the region, and consequently another driving force in the economy is within the environmental sector. Primary concerns include the preservation of the coral reefs, maintenance of aquatic and avian diversity, and pollution control.
   The surrounding waters also provide the basis for a booming commercial fishing industry, which sells 20 million pounds of seafood annually. In the interest of maintaining the sea’s bounty, many restrictions allow fishermen their catch while protecting the sea life. Stone crabs cannot be harvested whole, as only the claws are eaten. When caught, one claw is removed, and the crab is returned to the water, where it regenerates the lost claw within 18 months and can again be captured. Likewise, most fish must be thrown back into the sea if they don’t meet certain size and season requirements developed to protect immature or breeding fish. These laws ensure Florida’s seafood economy won’t crash from careless overfishing.
   Financial speculators predict a great increase in the Keys’ economic health over the next decade, based primarily on migration of population and expansion of current industries. The Keys’ are especially appealing to small business, as the limited land area has dissuaded major corporations from settling on the islands. Also, the small-town atmosphere seems to encourage and support entrepreneurs in a more genuine and deliberate way than does a big city, which, overwhelmed with choices, often decides based on convenience alone.
   In terms of personal finances, Florida helps residents by not assessing any personal income taxes or estate taxes. Additionally, Florida’s homestead exemption laws keep property taxes from skyrocketing based on real estate market activity.

Maps of Key West

Written by Kelly Culbertson exclusively for CoastParadise.com.

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