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Wilmington, North Carolina

The Port City

Isabella Rossellini walked naked down one of its streets, the cast of Dawson’s Creek cavorted regularly in its theatres and cafés and nearby dunes, and Andy Griffith puttered around downtown in his trademark Matlock seersucker.

Even if you’ve never been to Wilmington, NC, you may have seen more of this small, Southern city and the diverse natural locations that surround it than you have realized – albeit with a layer of Hollywood-style magic. Since the 1980s, when the largest film production studio outside California opened here, Wilmington has doubled as locations for movies, television shows and commercials, gaining a reputation as “Hollywood East”.

But to locals it’s “The Port City”, in tribute to the shipping and shipbuilding industries that made the city rich and endowed it with the all-American, history-drenched downtown that, above all else, attracted the film companies and was the starting point for the city’s enduring cultural and economic renaissance.

Greater Wilmington continues to be one of the fastest growing areas in America. Retirees, families, artists and others in search of a better life are drawn here for its proximity to mile after mile of fine, sandy beaches, for its laid-back Southern atmosphere, and for the irresistible quirkiness of any place that could combine moss-draped trees, neo-Gothic spires, carriage rides, and the occasional Dixie belle with indie music shops, modern art galleries, jazz bars and cutting-edge restaurants.

Perhaps this is simply what happens when a group of residents has enough civic pride to rescue their beautiful, riverside downtown from abandonment and infuse their economy with a plan to attract new types of business, reversing near economic oblivion.

Wilmington’s secret is its high quality of life, its equilibrium of learning, work, climate and community spirit, all of which ensures that this is a place not only with a past – but with a future, too.

Wilmington Fast Facts

Location: Midway between New York and Florida, on the southeastern coast of North Carolina

Population: 92,000

Median resident age: 34.1 years
Median household income: $50,100
Median house value: $128,400
Average annual rainfall: 54 inches

Average temperatures: 78.6°F in summer; 46.8°F in winter

Weather

Wilmington’s weather adds considerably to the city’s appeal. Not because every day is endless sunshine, but (at least for some) because it’s not. Retirees moving from Florida make up a significant portion of the city’s new population; these former northerners may have been glad to escape harsh winters, but giving up seasons altogether proved to be more than they could stand.

In Wilmington, mid-Atlantic breezes take the edge off both the summer heat and the winter chill, with an average high temperature in summer of 88°F and in winter, of a comfortable 58°F.

Make no mistake, Wilmington is a Southern city, and it does sometimes sizzle. On average, the thermometer tops 90°F 45 times in a year. But those are great days for the beach.

Transportation

A few years ago, when an extension to interstate highway I-40 reached Wilmington, the city was, in a sense, back in business. Suddenly, Wilmington was connected to the rest of the country, in a coast-to-coast way it hadn’t been since the railway companies pulled out in the 1960s.

With the Raleigh-Durham area (and its international airport) now less than two hours’ drive away, Wilmingtonians are more connected to the world.

Wilmington’s own airport offers flights on U.S. Airways and Delta Airlines to key U.S. cities, including regional hubs. But Wilmington is also ideally placed for road trips to places like Charleston, SC (167 miles), Savannah, GA (240 miles), Charlotte, NC (203 miles) and even Washington, DC (328 miles), or Norfolk, VA (209 miles).

Housing

Real estate bargains are few and far between in Wilmington, thanks to the area’s population boom and the effect of vacation-home buyers perpetually driving up prices. You can expect homes of any description within the nearby beach communities to start at $160,000; and those for whom money is no object could easily spend $1.5 million or more on the most desirable Wilmington-area properties. 

But with its old and new condominiums, retirement communities and varied developments, Wilmington has something for most any budget.

Buying property in the Wilmington area is always going to be an investment, since the coastal location and the city’s economic boom almost guarantee a steady appreciation in value. What’s more, large transient populations of vacationers, students and visiting business people ensure that renting out a property, whether short or long-term, will almost always be a profitable option.

What’s not to like?

Is there a downside to living in Wilmington? If there is, you won’t hear many residents admitting it. They might grumble a little about limited parking and the congested traffic on roads not exactly built to cope with a population explosion (on top of the usual peak-season swell), but savvy Wilmingtonians soon learn the back roads, short cuts and best times of day to go about their business to avoid the crush.

Hurricanes and storms can and do cut through the otherwise temperate climate. But Wilmington knows how to respond to those, and once such storms have passed, the community spirit involved in a cleanup only confirms why Wilmington is such a good place to live.

And finally, job opportunities are not yet as diverse in Wilmington as they might be. That is changing, but if you can’t wait for an opportunity to open up in your field, you could always take advantage of the excellent university and two community colleges at your disposal to get some new, more marketable skills.

Communities

Without a doubt, the most enticing community in Wilmington is its delightful, waterfront downtown, with more than 300 blocks of carefully restored 18^th, 19^th and early 20^th-century storefronts, apartments and homes.

Here you may find homes ranging from a former governor’s columned mansion to a historic apartment building to cute, bohemian clapboard houses painted in colorful shades and surrounded by lawn art. If there’s a downside to the successful rejuvenation of Wilmington’s historic district, it’s that the average homebuyer is now priced out – particularly given that the number of old homes available for refurbishment is decidedly finite.

Away from downtown, much of Wilmington has a leafy, suburban feel, with wide streets, breezy, coastal-style houses and a friendly, community atmosphere. More often than not, neighbors know each other.

Gated and golfing communities along the flat, sandy stretch between the city and the seashore were the big development story of the 1990s. Not only do these provide exclusive amenities to those who can afford them, but some of these communities carry reduced taxes and other fees, because they are outside the city limits. Of course, that can always change, as Wilmington has been growing steadily by annexation as well as population infusion.

If you’re moving to the beach to live at the beach, you may want to consider one of the waterfront communities surrounding Greater Wilmington. Of course, you’ll still having easy access to the city’s economic and cultural offerings, just as people who live inside the city limits regularly visit these charming places, all of which are within a 40-minute drive from downtown.

Wrightsville Beach: Since its earliest development, this five-mile-long island beach has been a low-key, affluent place, and as such it has a strong psychological connection with Wilmington. At 10 minutes’ drive from downtown, it’s also Wilmington’s closest beach. Real estate here consists largely of condominiums and large houses, while vacant lots are now all but unheard of.

Carolina Beach: Fifteen years ago, Carolina Beach might have been seen as something of a kitsch holdover from another time, but now the bait shops and 1950s beachfront motor courts are happily “retro” and have anyway been dwarfed by new upscale hotels, shopping facilities and single-family homes. Despite its one-time reputation as a party town, Carolina Beach’s water slides, camp grounds, marinas and fishing tournaments lend the place a distinctly family-oriented feel.

Kure Beach: This overwhelmingly residential community may not have much in the way of amusements, but everything it does have is well put together: a pier, a boardwalk, and a full complement of municipal services. Housing here is a mix of old-style cottages and newer condos, townhouses and houses. Best of all, Kure Beach (people in the know say “CURE-ee”) is guaranteed to stay small, thanks to the parks and government land that surround its limits, and town laws that cap all buildings at a maximum height of 35 feet.

Southport: Norman Rockwell could have painted this town into existence, and indeed it’s not only on the National Register of Historic Places but it’s been named one of the most desirable places to retire to in America. Located on the mouth of the Cape Fear River, Southport’s genteel homes and quaint (there’s just no other word for it) streets occupy the position of North Carolina’s first fort, built in 1754. The town’s restaurants, antique shops and art galleries are popular with Wilmingtonians and tourists alike.

Bald Head Island: Situated four miles off the coast, near Southport, Bald Head Island has long been famous for its 19^th-century lighthouse and 14 miles of unspoiled beaches. The island is home to an affluent resort community and is accessible only by boat (a private ferry runs from Southport, and daytrippers are welcome). Islanders get around by bicycle or golf cart; cars are simply not allowed.

Attractions

If you want to treat the kids or visiting friends and family to some sights, you won’t lack possibilities in and around Wilmington. Here are some of the city’s more original offerings.

Battleship North Carolina: You can’t miss this ship, moored in the river across from Wilmington’s historic waterfront. It was a star of World War II Pacific naval campaigns, earning the nickname “Immortal Showboat” for the low number of casualties it suffered in the process. Visitors take a self-guided tour from the ship’s stern to its engine room and Admiral’s Cabin.

North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher: The Cape Fear River area holds an eco-bounty, from wetlands to the deep Atlantic waters off the coastline, and many of the plants and animals therein get represented at the Fort Fisher branch of the North Carolina Aquarium. Highlights include baby alligators in the marshland atrium, diving displays in the three-story shark tank and touch pools that give kids (of all ages) hands-on experiences with some of the safer sea life.

Cape Fear Museum: Established in 1898, this museum provides a snapshot of the Cape Fear region’s cultural and natural history, including scale models of the Wilmington Waterfront and the second Civil War battle at Fort Fisher, as well as a child-friendly Discovery Gallery.

Louise Wells Cameron Art Museum: When it opened in 2002, this architect-designed art museum filled a gap in Wilmington’s cultural landscape, giving the city its first major art museum. Dedicated primarily to the art of North Carolina, the museum has a permanent collection of paintings, sculptures and folk art objects, with regularly changing exhibitions and educational programs

Antebellum mansions: No Southern city would be complete without its antebellum homes, and Wilmington has a few. The restored Bellamy Mansion, on Market Street, is an outstanding example of pre-Civil War opulence, while Burgwin-Wright House and its garden stand as testimony to the town’s prosperity in earlier, pre-Revolutionary times. Both are open year-round.

Spectacular gardens: Wilmington’s parks department looks after 250 acres of green space, including the walking trails, playground and picnic areas around the eerie and romantic Greenfield Lake. Just don’t plan to go for swim – the beware alligators signs aren’t a fake. Further afield, the 100-year-old Arlie Gardens, the offer yet more beautiful lawns and lakes. You might even spot the rare, indigenous Venus fly trap.

Screen Gems Studios: Wilmington’s film industry has taken a bit of a beating in recent years from cheaper locations overseas, but the studios continue with an active schedule of new commercials, television shows and movies. Guided tours of Screen Gems Studios are available on weekends, taking in the backlots and soundstages where Dawson’s Creek and other hits have been filmed. Downtown tours of filming locations are also available.

Recreation

The City of Wilmington’s promotional video describes the Greater Wilmington area as a recreational “paradise”, and after you’ve spent time playing tennis in the city’s parks, sunbathing or surfing on the local beaches (just don’t expect Pacific-sized waves outside hurricane season), boating, fishing or swimming in the rivers, harbors and sounds, or golfing on one of the area’s many golf courses, you might well agree.

Walkers and joggers, too, might find themselves in a kind of heaven, with the newly extended riverside boardwalk downtown and mile after mile of parkland trails or sandy beaches to choose from.

Dining & nightlife

If Wilmington was ever the kind of coastal town where greasy fried fish represented the outward bounds of the local culinary palette, those days are long gone.

Of course, you can still get good family-style seafood (fried, grilled, poached or pretty much any other way you like it) in one of the longtime fish restaurants along the waterfront, or at The Oceanic on Wrightsville Beach, with its panoramic ocean view.

But the newer bistros, pubs, cafes and stylish ethnic restaurants are what gives Wilmington claim to its new reputation as a regional gastronomic mecca. Wilmington’s best chefs continue what the celebrated North Carolina chef Bill Neal started in the 1980s – creating inventive (and sometimes ironic) takes on Southern ingredients, served up in arty but laid-back surroundings.

In short, the restaurants here are hip, they’re happening, and they’re getting better all the time.

Nightlife is focused mainly within the downtown historic district, where jazz bars, indie music venues, dance clubs and roof terraces prove that Wilmington is anything but a sleepy Southern town. In fact, the city’s colorful nightlife has become a considerable part of the draw for prospective UNC Wilmington students, and a wave of nightlife entrepreneurs has cropped up to keep things competitive and fresh. Strict zoning and licensing policies keep the noise down.

Arts & culture

Perhaps the greatest indication of Wilmington’s revitalization over the past couple of decades is the influx of painters, sculptors, photographers, musicians, actors and writers who continue to move into the area, drawn to the realness of the architecture, the easy way of life and the edge and originality of the coffeehouses, restaurants and music clubs.

As a result, Wilmington is a great place to shop for art – the waterfront area is dotted with commercial galleries. With more than two dozen local acting companies, a symphony orchestra and a steady stream of touring shows and big-name musical acts, entertainment options are also plentiful.

One special, cultural landmark worth a mention is Thalian Hall, a beautiful, 19^th-century theatre adjacent to City Hall. It is both an ornate historic landmark (Buffalo Bill Cody, John Philip Sousa and Oscar Wilde appeared here) and a focal point for the city’s theater lovers and fans of independent films.

Employment

Like most coastal destinations in the southeastern U.S., Wilmington’s economy relies considerably on tourism, which is to say that a large part of the city’s available workforce depends on jobs within the service and retail sectors (51% combined). But unlike many of its peers, Wilmington does have a substantial year-round population, an ever-improving economic mix, and a low unemployment rate.

Wilmington’s position in the shipping world may be diminished compared to its heyday, but “The Port City” continues to live up to its name. The port handles more than two million tons of freight a year, and recent dredging of the river bed should open the way for even larger ships – and perhaps more jobs in the import and export sphere.

General Electric and International Paper are the city’s top industrial employers, and a growing set of pharmaceutical and chemical companies are making their mark on the local economy. Healthcare and education are key growth areas, following the needs of an expanding population.

Education

As a college town, education is at the very heart of Wilmington’s evolving identity, and the spectrum of higher education on offer, both at the state university campus and the area’s two community colleges, continues to expand in line with the city’s rapidly growing population.

UNC Wilmington’s star continues to rise within the ranks of higher education, on the strength of the faculty it attracts and the increasingly broad program of liberal arts, science and business programs on offer. The university has ranked in the top 10 of Newsweek’s list of Southern universities for several years running, and the university’s marine biology department is recognized as one of the best in the nation. In keeping with the UNC system’s commitment to lifelong learning, residents who are over 65 can enroll in classes free of charge.

Wilmington is served by the New Hanover County school system, with 34 schools in grades kindergarten through 12. Every classroom in New Hanover County has access to the internet, and student to teacher ratios are slightly better than the national average, at 15:1.

Although most New Hanover County schools stick to the traditional August to May calendar, year-round schooling is available at three elementary schools and one middle school. An elementary magnet school offers a curriculum focused on science, math and technology.

Cape Fear Academy is Wilmington’s main secular private school, with about 520 students in pre-kindergarten through grade 12. The school has an average SAT score that is more than 200 points higher than the national average. Other private schools include New Horizons Elementary, Wilmington Montessori School, and several religious institutions: Friends School of Wilmington, Wilmington Christian Academy, Myrtle Grove Christian School, Seventh Day Adventist Church School and St. Mary Catholic School.

Written by Jonathan Holt, exclusively for Eastbiz.com

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